사학과 최덕경(사진) 명예교수가 20년간의 연구를 집적해 한국과 중국 간 논쟁점이었던 콩의 기원 문제를 밝히고, 콩 가공식품들의 출현과 용도를 새롭게 해석한 『우리 콩의 역사: 기원과 용도』(자연경실, 2024.12.9.)를 발간했다.

기존의 연구에서는 대두 기원지가 중국의 각 지역, 일본, 인도 등 매우 다양했다. 최근에는 동북 지역이 그 기원지라는 견해가 점차 늘어나고 있는데, 그 주된 근거는 대두의 자연 선택 조건이 적합하다는 점이다. 특히 한반도 중남부 지역은 이들 동북 지역보다 앞서 순화, 재배된 재배두가 출토되고 있다.

이 책에서는 대두(大豆)의 기원지가 한반도임을 밝히고, 그 다양한 용도와 전파경로를 심층적으로 분석했다. 한반도는 원시 콩이 순화 재배되기에 가장 적합한 생태조건을 가졌다. 여기서 재배된 콩은 기원전 3,000년까지 소급되며, 중원의 원시 콩과는 크기, 형태 및 질량에서 차이가 있었다. 

콩을 이용해 만든 장(醬)은 동아시아인의 입맛을 좌우했다. 가공 도구가 발달해 제분업이 성장하면서 등장한 두부, 분식(粉食)과 두유(豆油)는 식생활의 변화를 견인하기도 했으며, 그 과정에서 배출된 콩 부산물은 가축 사료, 비료 및 연료로 다양하게 이용됐다. 재난 시에는 구황작물로 활용되기도 하고, 그루갈이나 사이짓기를 통해 토지 이용도를 높이는 등 콩은 농가의 일상에서 어떤 작물보다 필요불가결했다. 

【『우리 콩의 역사』 표지】 

이번 신간은 대두와 콩 식품의 기원 및 확산 과정을 3부에 걸쳐 다룬다. 제1부에서는 융숙(戎菽)을 검토해 그 뿌리가 한반도 메주콩임을 확인하고, 제2부에서는 장시(醬豉, 장과 메주), 두부, 두유, 콩나물 등 콩 식품과 이를 확산시킨 생산수단의 발달, 부산물의 활용이 식생활과 농업 생산성을 높였음을 분석했다. 제3부에서는 한반도 대두의 기원과 가공품의 전파를 중국과 비교하며 연구했다. 

저자인 최덕경 교수는 “한반도에서 콩 식품이 발원한 주요 조건으로는 양질의 콩과 소금, 저장 도기, 선진 발효 기술이 꼽힌다. 고대 사료 부족은 한계로 작용했으나, 고려와 일본, 조선의 기록이 연구에 도움을 줬다. 이를 통해 한반도에서의 두부와 콩나물 출현이 중국과 비슷한 시점이며, 장시 기술과 보급이 중국보다 구체적이고 다양했음을 확인했다. 이는 대두의 생태적 특성과 역사적 정체성에 기반한다”고 설명했다. 

[Abstract]

Origin and Uses of Soybeans

Soybeans are one of the five major grains, known for its diverse uses and as a staple that shapes East Asian food culture. In this paper, I will argue that soybeans originated in the Korean Peninsula, whose usage there can be verified from multiple sources. The Korean Peninsula provided an optimal natural selection environment for the cultivation of primitive soybeans, whose origins date back to about 3000 BCE. These soybeans differed in size, shape, and mass from the primitive soybeans of the Central Plains. Furthermore, various processed foods made from soybeans—such as soy sauce, tofu, soybean oil, and bean sprouts—have influenced the taste preferences of East Asians and elevated the status of soybeans.

Moreover, the development of processing techniques has led to the development of the flour industry and introduced flour-based foods and soybean oil, bringing changes to dietary habits. The byproducts from this processing have been utilized as livestock feed, fertilizers, and fuel, and were also used as emergency crops during disasters. Additionally, the intercropping and root cultivation of soybeans has increased land utilization, making them an indispensable presence in the daily lives of farmers.

This paper is divided into three main parts. The first part presents the idea that "rongshu" from the Northeast during the Spring and Autumn period underwent domestication and evolution starting from the Korean Peninsula and then spread throughout the world. This led to the possibility of producing fermented soybean products like soy sauce, which would have been impossible with wild soybeans alone. This "rongshu" was a precursor to the Goryeo bean (高麗豆),  which has been discovered to have been cultivated earlier in various primitive forms in the Korean Peninsula. Therefore, it is reasonable to conclude that the Korean Peninsula was the origin of cultivated soybeans, with its roots in the "meju" beans of Korea.

The second part of my paper examines the processing methods for soybeans and related foods. The critical transformation of soybeans from a staple to a side dish was made possible by the development of processing tools. The progression from mortars to grinding stones, watermills, and stone rollers improved milling productivity, leading to the flourishing of the milling industry. However, conflicts soon arose between farmers and millers over the access to water that powered the watermills, requiring the intervention of the imperial court. This rapid development of production methods brought about changes in agricultural management during the Middle Ages, steering dietary habits toward a focus on flour-based foods.

The third part of my paper will consider the emergence of soybean and adzuki beans[小豆] that were processed for food in the Korean Peninsula. The conditions that allowed for the early appearance of sauces and meju (豉) alongside Goryeo beans in the Korean Peninsula included high-quality ceramics and fermentation techniques (such as fish sauce and compost production). However, the biggest challenge in researching ancient soybean processed foods in the Korean Peninsula has been the lack of records, which has necessitated heavy reliance on Chinese sources. Fortunately, the records of doenjang(末醬) excavated from the Goryeo seabed and ancient Japanese soy sauce and meju provided insight into the spread of these processed foods. Additionally, abundant materials on soybeans and their processed products in Joseon period allowed for inferences about earlier periods.

The reason for reexamining the history of soybeans in this book is not only due to the origins of the bean itself but also because soybeans are gaining attention as a future health food. Processed products made from soybeans include a variety of items such as bean rice, soybean paste, meju (豉), tofu, bean sprouts (豆芽), soybean oil, soy milk, bean cake (豆餠), bean flour (豆粉), cheongkukjang (淸麴醬: fermented soybeans), and industrial raw materials, among many others. The by-products are increasingly being used as livestock feed and fertilizers. Soybeans are rich in plant-based protein, making them a focus of a healthy diet for modern consumers. Therefore, interest in soybeans is natural, and a new examination of their origins, dissemination, and uses is needed.

As outlined above, soybeans and adzuki beans, along with their related products, have become widely popular and diverse over time in the Korean Peninsula, and are now firmly established as essential foods for Koreans. This can be attributed to the ecological conditions and historical identity that soybeans possess.

- Author: Choi, Dukkyung (Department of History, Pusan National University)